Low Carbon: Dyeing to go organic

Any woman who's ever dyed her own locks or had them treated at a salon knows that the process is a liberating confirmation of identity, allowing women to convert themselves from blonde bombshell to redheaded siren in a matter of hours.

But dyeing your hair can stink, in more ways than one. Not only can the dyes cause redness, swelling, and skin sensitivity, but regular use can increase the risk of non-Hodgkins lymphoma, leukaemia, arthritis and cancer - in some cases, by as much as 60%.

And all that dye doesn't just sit on your head creating health problems - it gets washed away into our waterstreams, introducing carcinogens and petrochemicals into our water supply and environment. Luckily, there are eco-friendly alternatives to conventional dyes - and what's more, they don't cost a penny more than what you're used to.

DANGEROUS DYES

Forty per cent of British women regularly dye their hair, according to the Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA), resulting in a £220 million industry that increases year on year. While the dyes contain a variety of ingredients, over half of which are 'sensitisers' (allergy inducing), according to the EU's Scientific Committee, most of the health problems associated with hairdye come from one niggling ingredient - P-Phenylenediamine (PPD) - an aromatic amine in almost every dye on the market.

PPD is most often associated with allergic reactions - like swelling, puffiness and constricted breathing - and are the reason that patch tests are necessary before dying one's hair. It's more concentrated in darker dyes, lending to health warnings that women who use dark hair dyes are 50-70% more likely to develop follicular lymphoma, a non-aggressive blood cancer, according to a recent study in the American Journal of Epidemiology.

So why aren't these chemicals banned? Because there hasn't been enough consistent research to discover just how consistently dangerous they are. While some European countries have banned the use of some of those chemicals, including PPD, their use in hair dyes is still accepted under European legislation - and they're even present in many natural dyes, including henna.

The main issue seems to be finding alternatives. According to the CTPA, PPD can't yet be replaced as "nothing else is as effective or as safe".

Even organic hair colourists agree. Elaine Warriner of Herb UK, the umbrella organisation of natural dyes Organic Colour Systems and Tints of Nature, concedes: "The way the science is set up right now, you do need PPD's to permanently colour the hair."

But you do so at your own risk, says a mole at University of Leeds' Department of Colour Science who wishes to remain anonymous.

"The textile industry wouldn't dream of touching these chemicals and it's a scandal that the hair industry still does," he says.

"You can become disfigured for the rest of your life if you react to PPD - and that's the reason why I don't let the women in my family dye their hair."

ALTERNATIVES

But until the hair colour industry discovers chemical-free alternatives to a process that helps boost many women's self-esteem, follicle fanatics can opt for ranges that use fewer chemicals than conventional dyes - and Herb UK's range could be one to try.

Not only are there far fewer PPDs in their hair dyes, but Herb UK's colourings are free of parabens, ammonia and animal testing. They're jam-packed instead with aloe vera, chamomile, orange and grapefruit. And, says Elaine, they're about as natural as you can get.

"There's an EU limit of 6% of PPD in hair dye," she explains, "but we have an average of 0.6% in ours, as we try to use as little as possible."

It sounded good, so I went to just one of many salons across the UK that are starting to stock organic alternatives. Could this dye compare to my normal colouring?

In a word: yes. Karine Jackson, the founder of Karine Jackson Hair & Beauty in London, whipped up a blend of golden and chestnut colours for me while explaining that she's been using Organic Colour Systems dyes for the past 18 months - and she's definitely not turning back.

"It all started when one of my clients, who had had cancer, asked me to look into organic hair dyes," she tells me while applying my fennel and liquorice-scented highlights.

"I tried a number of ranges that weren't quite right, but I really love Organic Colour Systems, and now about 80% of my clients are treated with it.

"As for my new clients," she winks, "I don't even bother giving them the option: I just give them organic."

Karine was impressed by the fact that the colour lasts just as long as conventional dyes. And with a comparable cost - the price is the same for conventional or organic dye - there's no better reason to try it out.

"People rave about how glossy and soft their hair is after colouring," says Karine as she holds up a mirror. And after my shampoo and blow-dry, I can see why: my hair is shiny, a beautiful melange of golden tones, and smells of spring flowers.

Herb UK's even got a range that can be applied at home - Tints of Nature - with all the same salon benefits, provided you're a regular at doing your own. So, ladies, it seems like the days of tin foil and smelly locks are gone for good - as long as we women keep our tresses organic.

Organic Colour Systems from Herb UK is available at selected salons nationwide and Tints of Nature is available to buy for home purchase. Go to www.Hebraic.co.uk for details.